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Hello Tony,
I have to agree with Bernhard the sound on a TI-1 or TI-2 using the 50 watt valve amp with the standard transistor preamplifier produces a rich sound out of those ported bass bins and this sound when correctly wired to the Shure 44M cartridge takes some beating and IMHO is one of the besr sounding jukeboxes that Rowe Ami ever made.
The results that you have with the amplifier yo
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ami-man
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Hello Dirk,
What is the size of the tweeter and can you upload a picture?
Regards
Alan
Alan Hood
ami-man
UK
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Hello Hidegard,
It looks home made to me the mains transformer looks far to big for its purpose, a lot like in the early video games cabinets.
There appears to be be no sign of any modules (such as a power amp or pre amp) on the chassis from the picture you have shown.
Regards
Alan
Alan Hood
ami-man
UK
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Hello Marco,
Herondata in the UK is still supplying used CDM3 lasers there website is www.herondata.co.uk
Regards
Alan
Alan Hood
ami-man
UK
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Hello Iceman77,
Charly49 is correct in all he says, the best cause of action is to check and adjust all of the tone arm & cam adjustments after checking the tone arm cable for operation and that it does not bind on anything.
Another issue can be with the crank and pin assembly that drives the fransfer link, the longer of the pins on the assembly can become loose on the rivet and cause the
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The three pictures in the earlier post would not come up (no access), but on the later picture you can see that the mechanism is a Rowe Ami and it is the later CD basket (the more open type) looking at the cabinet size I would say that the mechanism is one of the smaller types that is used on the Rowe Ami wall boxes.
The early Antique Apperatus one more times used Rowe Ami parts, but in some c
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ami-man
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Hello flipperjoe,
Welcome to the forum from me also.
I am glad to hear that with Charly49's help you have sorted out your problem with your CD 250 watt amplifier.
Regards
Alan
Alan Hood
ami-man
UK
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ami-man
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Hello Jurgen,
Clean the tormat connection with a pencil rubber (eraser) and check that the pins that run along the tormat are good both for the A & B and the ground contacts.
Regards
Alan
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ami-man
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Hello Mike,
If you could show us a larger picture of the inside of the jukebox so we can see the location of the cables and plug/loom that you talk about we can give you a better answer to what you need to do.
The loose cable could be from the phono connection but then again it could form part of the volume control wiring which ought to be the same four wires and a sceened cable.
As Char
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ami-man
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Hello Simona,
Hildegard is correct that you need to get the manual so you have a reference to do the day to day jobs on the jukebox like changing the cabinet lamps.
In order to change the lamp you talk about you need to open the upper service door.
Any tubes replaced need to be American flow tubes, the starters are 110/115 volt and the cholks are the same voltage.
If you are in Europe you
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Hello tubesglow,
charly49 has given you good advice, I would say that you need to be careful of the neck that holds the title section, lift it from the sides rather than on the top secton to avoid damage to the neck.
Regards
Alan
Alan Hood
ami-man
UK
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ami-man
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Hello luc,
I am not a great believer in changing caps on the pre amps unless needed, the power amp and supply rails is another matter.
You may great difficulty getting a chassis of the R3680A in any condition and if you can they will be expensive, I would estimate over £100.00
If you can not source one in your park of Europe please get in touch and I will get one out of stock.
Regards
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Lello Luc,
I agree with charly49 you need to get this amplifier to someone who can repair it correctly, it is a very involved circuit and a lot of the wiring is linked via tag strips if my memory is correct, in addition the pre-amp board is unique to this model of ampfifier only.
Regards
Alan
Alan Hood
ami-man
UK
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ami-man
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Hello Luc,
This amplifier was the first transistor amplifier made by Rowe Ami, there are known faults on it with regards to the AVC (automatic volume control) I have not done many repairs on these amplifiers, they were only used in the MM1 and coursed that many problems for Rowe Ami that they went back to the valve amp on the standard package for their 200 selection jukeboxes right through the
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ami-man
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Hello John,
The main issues on this pre-amplifier are dry joints on the 13 pin molex jumper plug connection and the two 4 pin connection that connect to the driver boards.
The two lamps tend to rot or break off from the board, the result is that you loose that channel. If the board is stored in damp conditions the bass & treble switches may need to be removed from the board so they can
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Hello John,
Can you please let us have the Rowe Ami amplifier model number the orgiginal in the RI-3 would not have pre-amp lamps so the amplifier could be the later type out of a RI-5 orthe 125 or 130 watt type.
Regards
Alan
Alan Hood
ami-man
UK
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ami-man
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Hello John,
Are you asking for advice on this amplifier and pre-amplifier or are you looking for parts to repair it?
Regards
Alan
Alan Hood
ami-man
UK
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Hello Graham,
I have sent you a reply email regarding this subject. Are you wishing to use this hidaway to build the Continenty copy jukebox if so then to obtain a keyboard and display and associated looms is the best route option for you. If however you just want to use the hidaway as it is and the MHG wallbox linked to it then contact me with the wallboxmodel type i.e. what the main board is
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Hello Redbull1,
From your discription I assume that it plays 101 but shows 201 on the dislay after the mechanism has scaned to the slot 101 and plays 101.
On the RI-2, R-80S to R-83 this is the correct sequence of events the display always counts in the 200 range and will only show you the 101 as you select it.
Regards
Alan
Alan Hood
ami-man
UK
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ami-man
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Hello Andi,
I can understand that you are looking for someone more local to you. As I said earlier if you can not find anyone to do the work by all means ship your items to me in the UK, I have supplied a number of people in Switzerland, Germany and France. I do get parcels from all over the world and have shipped to the USA, Austrailia and Hong Kong.
I hope one of the German dealers can re
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ami-man
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Hello Andi,
Sorry I do not fly around the world and yes I am an Ami Tech.
It sounds as if you do not have all the power supplies on the power supply unit.
If you can not find someone nearer to you in Europe to send in your power supply and boards to for testin/repair then I suggest that you remove the power supply and the following boards and ship them to me in the UK for testing/repair:-
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Hello J80,
It would be difficult to suggest what this jukebox is worth, It has missing trims and motor cover but it was the last of the jukebox models produced by Jensen; Jensen stopped producing juke boxes in 1960.
The J-80-H was basically a G-80 mechanism made under licence by Jensen and fitted into a cabinet very similar to the Ami H.
Jensen produced some very good amplifiers, but I am
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Hello Andi,
You will need to check those led's on the power supply.
If you put the service switch to off and press the scan switch what are the resulting actions; does the mechanism scan?
Regards
Alan
Alan Hood
ami-man
UK
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Hello Andi,
Did you lock down the mechanism/carousel for transportation with the two central bolts and the bolt on the back of the cabinet? If you did have you released these tie down bolts so that the mechanism is free on its springs and rubber mounts.
If you did not tie the mechanism down has there been any damage in transportation, the belt that holds the records and stops them falling o
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ami-man
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Hello Leo,
The part in your pictures is some form of amplifier.
I suggest that you take some close up pictures of the front so we can see the legends on the controls.
Regards
Alan Hood
ami-man
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Hello Sebastian,
Charley49 is correct it could be one of the micro switches could be defective but it could also be where the wires from the switches are soldered to the slip rings on the back of the stop plate assembly.
Check out the operation of the switches and check the slip rings for the soldered connections, I would also clean the slip rings the best way to do this is with a pencil rubb
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Hello Tom,
Can you confirm that the One More Time information you are seeking is for 45rmp records at that the One More Time is made by Wurlitzer and not by Rowe Ami. Rock Ola, Antique Apparatus (with Rowe Ami parts) or Sound Leisure.
Regards
Alan Hood
ami-man
UK
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ami-man
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Hello Andreas,
It sounds as if you have a number of faults here:-
Record start
Record finish/reject
Sound issues
The start and finish are effected by tone arm cam adjustments and the reed switch for the reject.
I would remove the transfer motor and check the pawls on the crank & pins assembly (fitted on the other end of the transfer motor). This assembly drives the linkage that
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Hello Sean,
You must have set up the programming incorrectly your City 2 will be the same be the same progamming as say a ES 160.
If you think you are using the electronic progamming setting for NSM 160 then there may be a problem on the board.
If the board in the wallbox is the earlier type with the jumper card & dil switches then you need to use the correct jumper card and the correc
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ami-man
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Hello Andy,
Charly49 is correct regarding the way the 10 k log dual pot is wired, this format was used for all of the volume controls up to and including the R-82 (64 watt or 100 watt amplifier). Rowe Ami continued with the 10k log control but a screen (or shield) was no longer required.
Regards
Alan Hood
ami-man
UK
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