ROWE AMI CADETTE SERIAL HELP PLEASE

HI, NEW TO THIS FORUM AND IN NEED OF HELP. I HAVE JUST OBTAINED A ROWE AMI CADETTE FOR RESTORATION. I CHECKED THE SERIAL NUMBER SO I COULD ADD TO THE DATABASE AND IT IS 706674. THIS SEEMS TO BE IMPOSSIBLE AS IT WOULD DATE THE MACHINE 5 YEARS BEFORE PRODUCTION OF THE CADETTE. ANY IDEAS PLEASE?

Hello Nick,

what exact information does the ID plate give regarding model type? is it the ID plate of the mechanism or at the back of the jukebox?

Hildegard Stamann

Hello nickstuart,

there were two modells, which were called CADETTE. The CMM-1 (CADETTE de luxe) came 1967, at the same time with the MM-1. The CMM-4 (CADETTE II) came 1970, at the same time with the MM-4. Both models were produced several years.

Best regards - charly49

thanks guys, the only plate i can find is on the mechanism chasis (says model 1000) so the serial must refer to the mechanism? there is no plate on the back and no tell tale signs of one ever being there. i am new to rowe ami so am i looking in the wrong place?. the only place i have yet to explore is the speaker cab in the base! all advice on this machine very welcome. a few hours work and she was running really quite well. pretty much all original parts are present but i am tempted to do a custom job...

Hello Nick,

yes, the serial belongs to the mechanism - not to the Cadette itself.
Is yours shown here? [www.jukebox-world.de]

Hildegard

hi hildegard, no. it is identical to the 1968 CMM-1 shown in the photo except that is has a fancy wooden type illuminated front. not too sure if i can upload pics on this site but if possible i will. like i say ....all advice welcome!.....hope this pic from pinballrebel uploads. it is identical

nick

So it's this one: [www.jukebox-world.de]
This is also a Cadette - Cadette de Luxe, Violetta and CDII are names I already found for it.

It was built in / about 1971. There had been CMM-3 and CMM-5 avaialbe, too. They seem to look identical to CMM-4 - but I only know from ID plates resp. requests from customers that these models exist. I do not know if there also was a CMM-2.

Kind regards - Hildegard

yes....the very same! still no trace of an id plate. i bought it from a farmer in the south of england yesterday. it has been stored in a disused pig shed for a very long time. the amp needs an overhaul and the the coin mech will put credit on but not take off after a record is played. other than that it checks out very well.

Hi Nick ,

" it has been stored in a disused pig shed for a very long time."

Unbelieable , poor Jukebox !
So you are the savior !

Regards Klaus

Hello Nick,

if the Cadette did sit for a long time it's a good sign that it works in general except for the cut-off at the end of the record.
There is be a reed switch (inside a little glass tube) which needs to be activated at the end of the record. This might be broken.

Another option is a mis-adjusted tonearm and it does not reach the right point for the cut-off. The adjustments are described in the manual.

Hildegard

hi hildegard,
no the tone arm is fine and returns perfectly. it is just that the machine will not 'spend' any credit from the credit mech. (permanent free play). so a minor problem. i am going to try get hold of a service manual (none in the UK on ebay etc...sadly) and start a proper overhaul soon. looks like the manual will cost as much as the juke! bit dissapointed that there is no ID plate present.

thanks. nick

Hello Nick,

If you require any advice, spare parts, repairs or servicing on this jukebox please feel free to contact me.

Regards
Alan Hood (ami-man)

Games Unlimited & Datex Systems
Units 4 & 5 Lion Park
New Street
Halfway
Sheffield
S20 3GH
UK

0114 247 0242 phone
0114 251 0727 fax
alan-hood@datex.co.uk

thanks alan, going to do an assesment and start breaking her down soon as the evenings get lighter and longer! component wise....all pretty much ok but whole thing will need rewiring. at some point i will need a manual if you supply such a thing?
cheers, nick

Hello Nick,

Thank you for the reply, I have about 85-90% of the Caddette manual. Hidegard has the CMM4 manual on this site for sale at 50 Euro plus delivery. Just search the site for Rowe Ami manual and you will see it in the list.

with regards to the wiring only do the 110 volt to the lighting etc this will be the wiring that can be bad. With regards to the cholks (ballasts) and the starters these need to be 110 volt and the tubes need to be American flow tubes (the measurement it to the ends of the pins).

Regards
Alan

Alan Hood
ami-man
UK

thanks all,
disappointed that the serial is missing and i guess there is no way to link the mechanism serial with the box. the tranny amp suggests a later model as i think early ones had tubes? many thanks to alan for the wiring advice and stuff in general...i may need to call you at some point for help if ok?

all the best, nick

Hello Nick

The CMM-1 had a solid state amp (like the MM-1). The CMM-4 had a hybrid amplifier (solid state pre amp and power amp with tubes) like the MM-4. A solid state amplifier (mono or stereo) was available on request. The tube amp was used up to model TI-2 (1974). That was made, because the early solid state amplifiers caused frequently problems. The tube amplifier has an excellent sound and is very reliable in service.

Best regards

Hi Nick,

Charly49 is correct re the amps Rowe Ami introduced their first solid state amp in the MM-1 a beast of a amp 100 watts, but there were issues with the AVC (automatic volume control) circuit and other problems. so most of the MM series had a the R-4359 (601-04359) 50 watt amp fittted as standard and as stated was used up to 1974 in the TI-2, a great amp one of my favourites but my top amp is the 64 watt 2179 (602-02179).

Looking back at one of your early posts you mention that you get credit but it is not removed after selection, it could be that someone has cut the wires to the credt cancel coil so that it always has credit, I have even known people cut out some of the teeth on the credit wheel! Not the best way to do it.
The printed circuit board on the credit unit is best cleaned using a pencil ruber (eraser) and clean off with a lint free cloth.

Regards
Alan

Alan Hood
ami-man
UK

hi alan,
just checked and i have the r2179 amp and i have to agree.... i kicks ass! ....even thought i seem to only be getting a mono output at the moment which i have yet to investigate (can't see a mono switch). my wurly 3800 sounds 'wooly' when compared. bass is especially tight and defined....really quite impressed with this little box and looking forward to making a start on her.

all the best. nick