Any Wurlitzer 1900 experts out there ?

Ok, I'm trying to get this 1956 Wurlitzer 1900 functioning after being restored. Here is what is happening. When I put a coin into the mechanism, the coin motor turns and gives me credit, as soon as credit is established, the cancel solenoid (in the coin mechanism) will "machine gun" until all of the credit is removed and the "key switch" is open again.
While this is happening the latch solenoid will pull in, but then drop out again as soon as the "key switch opens", the select light will glow very dimly.
I can trip a pin on the mechanism manually and it will take off and play a record and return it
I have double checked all the solenoids for functionality, (the relay in the amp pulls in, T1, and the start relay will pull in, also T2 will pull in. I've checked all the contacts with an ohm meter and the normally open, and normally closed are doing their thing. I've also checked the selector contacts , both letter and number series switches, and checked to see if the insulating posts were shorting out. All looks good.
When I got this machine , the "coin return coil" had been burnt up. (I got a replacement from bennies fifties). Also the bottom 14-26 selector fiber assembly had broken in the middle. I was able to get a replacement out of a 5207 wallbox.(exact replacement). All of the contacts have been cleaned and are like new. I put my ohm meter from #1 to #26 and they all make contact. I have checked the contact from every number to the appropriate plug #1 and #2 that go into the mechanism.
The thing that has me confused is ,with the plugs out of the mechanism they don't show a short circuit. If I put my meter on the mechanism sockets they show a high resistance short from pin to pin (13.5 ohms). except the pin that the wire is actually going to, then it will show .5 ohms.
I have had the bottom mechanism out, and checked all of the 26 solenoids and none are burnt. I have also installed new capacitors under the mechanism as well as the 100 mfd, 160 volt in the coin unit. I have set all of the adjustments in the front selector and coin mechanism.
I have also installed new caps and tubes in the amp ,as well as a silicon bridge to replace the selenium rectifier. I measure 31 volts at the T1 coil and start relay.
I'm thinking either I have a short ,(dim #44 select lamp), or maybe too much voltage and I'm not getting the "delay" that T1 is supposed to have.
I have also checked the counter and bulb socket for shorts, as well as replaced the 150 ohm and 175 ohm original resistors with 150 and 180 ohm 10 watt units.
About the only other thing that I can think of is, when I got this machine the "blue" wire that comes off of the number "C" selector was just "hanging there" the only place that had a "non connected wire" was the lower contact of the "letter series switch" (closest to the coin shute). But now it has 2 wires connected to it. I'm assuming someone tried to get the machine to function not knowing that the lower selector contacts had broken. (bypassed) ? The "free play switch " located in front of the counter will also pull the latch solenoid in, but the cancel solenoid will make it fall back out again.
I cleaned the contacts on the "wobble plate" and also checked both 120 ohm 5 watt resistors under the mechanism when I had it out.
I have the manual and "Harold Hagen's Wurlitzer Volume #2 ,and this "problem" is not listed , although some seem close. Any ideas ? I don't know anyone with a 1900 that is close, or anyone that is familiar with these machines.
Thanks to all in advance...
Tony

Hello Tony

This is a very strange problem. As you see in the wiring diagram, one lead of the cancel solenoid is connected directly to the rectifier (- 28VDC). The other lead goes to the pushbutton latch swithes and to the letter (D) pusbutton switches. Both must be OPEN, until the buttons are pressed. The circuit will be completed if both pushbutton latch switches are closed (over the rotary contactor) to ground. That is only the case, if the latch solenoid is pulled in and both, a letter and a number pushbutton are pressed. The only reason, why the cancel solenoid (and the start relay) may be activated, is, that this lead is shot-cicuited to ground. But a short-circuit against ground dosn't explain the "machine gun".

We will try to fix the trouble step by step. First hold the Button Release button down, while inserting a coin (to prevent the pulling in of the latch solenoid). If the cancel coil is not any longer activated and the Make Selection Light is lighting, the trouble is in connection with the function of the Latch solenoid.

In this case the trouble is probably a misadjustment of the levers, which operates the pushbutton latch switches. The contacts may only close if a letter- and a number button is pressed. Check again the insulating posts.

Greetings - charly49

Charly49, Thank-you for responding so quickly.
Doing as you say, holding the "SELECT" button in, while depositing a coin "quarter". The "SELECT " lamp will glow very dimly (I measure 3.2 volts with my Fluke meter.) Also the 150 ohm 10 watt resistor gets SUPER hot to the touch. (so I didn't hold it in very long) Also, I measure 43 volts DC from ground to the one "leg " of the insulated standoff that the resistor is soldered to.
When I "release" the select switch, the cancel solenoid will immediately "machine gun" and remove the 3 credits that were put on. It stops again when the "key switch" is opened , or obviously when the "short" is removed. The insulating post are ok.
With the power off and the latch solenoid pulled in, I do measure a "short" from the top contact of the "latch solenoid switch" to ground. This is the junction of the 150 and 180 ohm resistors.
Thanks again..
Tony

Hello Tony

Once more, have you watched, if the both "pushbutton latch switches" (refer to the manual) stay OPEN, if the lach solenoid pulls in. They may ONLY be operated, if a letter and a number pushbutton are pressed, while the latch solenoid is pulled in. The closing of the switches tells the machine, that a selection was made and the machine tries to start the procedure. Because there is no pushbutton pressed, no selection pin can be shot. But the credit will be subtracted and the latch solenoid releases (normally to release the pushbuttons) for a short time.

If you have only 3,2 volts across the select - lamp, you have probably a wrong lamp. I think, it should be a GE 47 lamp (6,3 V / 0,15A).

Greetings - charly49

Hello again. I cannot Thank-You enough charly49.
I was pulling my hair out. You nailed it when you said "are the pushbutton latch switches staying OPEN. They were not. They were closing when the latch solenoid pulled in. Seems I thought they were adjusted closed when the latch solenoid pulled in. The trick was that they should only close once the letter and number buttons were pressed, which brought the contacts down to the "step"or "notch" that they are designed to "hold" in. As soon as I adjusted them for the "step". The machine now takes off and does it's thing. :) :) :)
I am one happy camper !!!

Thank-you !!
Tony